![]() ![]() I’ve covered design transfer here on Needle ‘n Thread a gazillion times, so I won’t go into detail here. You’ll also need whatever items you find necessary for your favorite method of design transfer. I used a #7 crewel for all the stitching.Īnd you’ll need a sharp pair of scissors. Binding the inner ring helps protect your fabric and it also helps maintain good tension while you’re stitching. You can find a tutorial for binding the inner ring of a wooden hoop here. I used a 6″ wooden hoop with the inner ring bound. Here’s a list of supplies you’ll need to stitch these designs. The project is suitable for beginners and beyond. The results are not only Christmas-colorful, but they are just a little textured, to give some extra interest to the whole design! This keeps the whole project uncomplicated and relaxing. I’ve stitched this holly & evergreen decorative corner onto a flour sack towel, using only four very simple stitches. I’ve also added a little something in my shop for those who don’t like transferring designs and who want to launch into stitching without the hassle of transferring.Īnd finally, at the end of today’s article, I’ll announce the winners of Monday’s Book Bundles from A Stitcher’s Christmas! I’ll give you three versions of the design – the full version, a light version, and an ultra-light version. Remember last week when I showed you the holly & evergreen design that I had altered and started stitching?īy way of an early Christmas gift for you, today I’m going to share a few tips with you on how I stitched the design, along with a thread and stitch list. They should also not touch, which means that at a corner there should be a small open space at the point where the lines would usually meet.I know we’re getting a wee bit close to Christmas, but if you have it in you to stitch something Christmassy over the next week or so, perhaps this project will tickle your fancy! Be careful that you don't pull the thread too tight, which will cause the fabric to pucker.Īlso, when working on a pattern where the lines meet, work the lines of stitching evenly and so that the stitches don't cross each other. This is because it is much easier to mark solid lines, even though the stitches create a dashed line.Īs you stitch, you can load several stitches onto the needle before pulling it through. When marking the sashiko patterns on the fabric, use a water-soluble marking pen or a pencil for best results, as you do not want the marked lines to be permanent. Darning and milliners' needles are good choices for sashiko. Use a long needle with an oval-shaped eye that can easily accommodate the thread. You may need to experiment to find the right fabric. Bottom-weight fabrics such as denim and twill are too heavy for sashiko, but cotton/linen blends are usually a perfect weight. The loose weave allows the needle to move in and out of the fabric with ease. The fabric should be heavier than broadcloth but lighter than denim. Work sashiko on plain weave fabric with a slightly loose weave, such as a medium weight linen. Sashiko patterns should be worked in heavier embroidery threads such as all 6 strands of embroidery floss, a size 8 pearl cotton or traditional sashiko thread, which comes in different weights and many colors. The stitches are longer and the gaps are half the size of the stitches. ![]() The only difference is that the space in between each stitch must be half the length of a full stitch. The sashiko stitch is worked in the same manner as a basic running stitch. This also results in a double-sided piece. For designs that are not to be seen on both sides, a temporary away knot can be used, and thread tails threaded through the back side of the stitching.įor more Japanese embroidery, look for the second set of sashiko patterns and visit the Sashiko Resources List. Sometimes sashiko is worked on two layers of fabric so that the tails produced by starting and ending a length of thread are hidden between the layers. Sashiko patterns are worked in continuous lines and knots are not used. You will find the full-size patterns for each design, as well as a diagram showing you how to work the sashiko stitch, on the following pages. This pattern features the first of eight different designs so you can try sashiko stitching. The Japanese word sashiko means little stabs and refers to the small stitches used in this form of needlework. This form of embroidery, which is also popular in quilting, uses straight or curved geometric designs stitched in a repeating pattern. Sashiko is a form of Japanese folk embroidery using a form of the running stitch to create a patterned background. ![]()
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